125 answers spread across 12 topics, from the technical spec sheet to maintenance. They're written with concrete figures and also tell you when not to bother with something: if the honest answer is that you don't need our most expensive product, that's what you'll read.
125 questions
Materials, fibre, backing and what each figure on the technical spec sheet means.
It's a textile made from synthetic fibres stitched onto a fabric backing, which is then coated on the reverse to hold them in place. Visually it imitates freshly mown natural grass, but it isn't a living thing: it doesn't grow, doesn't need water or nutrients, and doesn't rot. It's manufactured in rolls, usually 2 and 4 metres wide, and cut to size for each installation.
The pile is usually made of polyethylene (PE), which gives the natural look and soft feel. The thatch — the short curled fibre at the base that imitates dry grass — is normally polypropylene (PP), stiffer and cheaper. In sports installations with heavy wear, nylon (polyamide) is sometimes used, much more hard-wearing but rougher and more expensive. The backing is made of a woven polypropylene mesh with an SBR latex or polyurethane coating that holds the stitches in place.
It's the layer of short, curled fibre, usually brown or beige, woven in among the green fibres. It serves two purposes: it imitates the dry grass found at the base of any real lawn, which avoids the “single-colour carpet” effect, and it supports the long fibres so they stay upright. Grass without thatch is spotted as artificial much more quickly.
Dtex is the weight in grams of 10,000 metres of a fibre. It translates into the thickness of each filament: the higher the dtex, the thicker and more resistant each blade is. In mid-to-high-range residential grass, the usual range is between 10,000 and 14,000 dtex. On its own it's not enough: a high dtex with low density gives a sparse lawn with thick fibres.
It's the number of fibre tufts per square metre, expressed in stitches/m². It's calculated by multiplying the stitches per linear metre by the number of rows per metre. As a reference: below 15,000 is entry-level; between 16,000 and 19,000, mid-range; from 20,000 upwards, high-end. It's the figure that best predicts whether the grass will still look presentable after five years.
The gauge is the spacing between the rows of stitches, measured in inches. The most common in decorative grass are 3/8" (9.5 mm) and 5/8" (15.9 mm). The smaller the gauge, the closer together the rows are, and the denser the grass looks for the same number of stitches per linear metre.
It refers to the cross-section of the filament, which determines how it behaves when walked on. Simple straight fibres flatten easily; those with a C, S, V or W-shaped cross-section have ribs that act like a spring and return the fibre to an upright position. That “spring-back” is the main technical difference between mid-range and high-end grass.
It adds up the fibre and the backing, and it's the figure that's hardest to dress up: more grams means more material. As a guide, 1,500-2,000 g/m² corresponds to entry-level, 2,200-2,800 g/m² to mid-range and 2,900-3,600 g/m² to high-end. When two spec sheets look equivalent, weight usually settles it.
A perforated SBR latex backing is the standard and works well in most installations. A polyurethane backing allows full permeability — it drains across the whole surface, not just through the holes — copes better with constant damp and doesn't degrade with urine. It adds around €2-3/m² to the cost and is worth it above all with pets or in areas of heavy rainfall.
A product that declares compliance with EN 71-3 is free of heavy metals above the limits set for children's toys. It's the standard worth insisting on, especially if there will be children or pets around. Always ask for the spec sheet or certificate: the absence of that mention is a red flag in itself.
Synthetic fibres melt in heat and can burn. That's why there's a fire-reaction classification under EN 13501-1; for decorative grass, Cfl-s1 is standard. Silica sand used as ballast improves fire behaviour. In practice, damage almost always comes from barbecue embers or cigarette ends, not from a fire.
It can give off a slight plastic smell for the first few days, especially if the roll has been in storage and gets direct sun. It fades on its own within one or two weeks. A strong, persistent chemical smell isn't normal: if that happens, it's worth raising it with the seller.
Pile height, density, colour and which model suits each use.
20 to 30 mm for high-traffic areas, terraces and balconies, where you want the fibre not to flatten. 35 to 45 mm is the most balanced range and the best seller for residential gardens: it looks natural and stays comfortable. Above 45 mm the look is very lush, but the fibre flattens sooner where it's walked on, so it's best kept for decorative areas.
Density. A sparse 40 mm grass looks thin as soon as the fibre flattens; a dense 30 mm one holds up far better and looks more natural. With the same budget, prioritise density over pile height.
For a residential garden in everyday use, the 30 to 40 mm range with a density from 18,000 stitches/m² and a colour guarantee of 10 years or more covers most cases well. If the garden is the main view from the house and gets little foot traffic, going up to 45 mm improves the look; if there are children, pets and an outdoor dining table, staying at 30-35 mm gives a better result after three years.
One that combines high drainage (from 80 litres per hour and m²), a moderate pile height of 30 to 40 mm and a perforated or polyurethane backing. Good drainage stops urine from pooling and causing odours; a moderate pile height makes cleaning easier. Above 45 mm, mess gets tangled in the fibres and it becomes much harder to maintain.
Between 20 and 30 mm. On a small surface, extra pile height doesn't add realism and does complicate maintenance. Weight matters more — between 1.6 and 2.1 kg/m² versus 2.9 kg/m² for a tall-pile grass — because a roof terrace may have a load limit, as does drainage, since the water can't filter into the ground.
Look for fibre that's stabilised against chlorine, high drainage so it dries quickly, and a moderate pile height of 25 to 35 mm. It's best to fix the perimeter with adhesive rather than metal pegs, which rust with chlorinated or salt water.
Look at four figures together: density (stitches/m²), total weight (g/m²), dtex and years of colour guarantee. If the seller doesn't publish one of them, it's usually because it doesn't flatter their product. Physically, good-quality grass has at least three shades of fibre, brown thatch at the base, and the fibres spring back upright when you fold them by hand.
In Spain, any product sold to a consumer carries a 3-year statutory conformity guarantee. On top of that, the manufacturer offers a commercial guarantee against fading from UV exposure: from 5 years on entry-level ranges to 15 on high-end ones. In very sunny areas, such as the Mediterranean coast, it's best not to go below 10 years.
It depends on use. In a high-traffic area, the difference shows from the third year onwards: high-end fibre springs back upright and entry-level fibre doesn't. In a decorative area that's barely walked on, the difference is mostly aesthetic and may not be worth it. For a large, less visible surface, a well-installed mid-range grass performs better than a badly installed premium one.
Under the strong sun of southern Europe, very saturated greens give away straight away that the grass is artificial. Olive-based tones, a little more muted and grey-green, blend in better with Mediterranean gardens with pale gravel, olive trees or whitewashed walls. Indoors or in low-light areas, on the other hand, a brighter green looks more pleasant.
Yes, and it's well worth doing: no screen reproduces colour faithfully or lets you judge the feel. Order two or three samples and compare them in your own garden, at different times of day. The same grass looks very different at midday and at dusk.
Bring both to the same unit: price per m², incl. VAT. Then compare density, total weight and years of guarantee, and check whether the quote includes sub-base preparation, weed membrane, joints and fixing materials. Most of the price differences between installers lie in what doesn't appear in the headline figure.
How many metres to order, how much it costs and what's included in the price.
Measure the length by the width of each area and add up the surfaces. To that total, it's worth adding between 5% and 15% margin: rolls come in fixed widths of 2 or 4 metres and there are always offcuts at corners, curves and joints. 5% is enough for a clean rectangle; 15% is a sensible margin for irregular shapes. The margin is optional: if your measurements already include it, select “No margin” and the exact metres will be ordered.
Because the grass is cut along a roll of fixed width. If you need a strip 3 metres wide, it has to be cut from a 4-metre roll, and the spare metre is already paid for. All rolls also have to be laid with the pile facing the same direction, which limits how much use you can make of the offcuts.
The 4-metre one leaves fewer joints and a better finish, and works out cheaper if your surface is 4 metres or more in any direction; in exchange it's very heavy (around 100 kg for 10 linear metres) and needs two people to handle. The 2-metre one is easier to manage through narrow access points, stairs or balconies, but produces twice as many joints.
Only subtract large, regularly shaped features, such as an 8 × 4 metre pool. It's not worth subtracting a single tree or a small flower bed: cutting around them wastes more than you save, and coming up short is the worst outcome of all.
It's the most expensive mistake to make. A later top-up may come from a different manufacturing batch, with a difference in shade that can't be fixed. That's why it's always worth rounding up and keeping the large offcuts: in a few years' time they'll come in handy for repairing a damaged area in exactly the same shade.
In Spain, as a guide: €9 to 15/m² for entry-level, €15 to 25/m² for mid-to-high-range and €30 to 40/m² for top-of-the-range, always incl. VAT. Below €10/m² you're buying little fibre and short guarantees, which can be perfectly reasonable depending on the use.
Professional installation in Spain runs at around €10-20/m² and includes clearing the existing ground, preparing and compacting the sub-base, laying, joints and fixing. On an existing hard surface, such as a terrace, the job is much smaller and many customers do it themselves.
In the medium term, usually yes. A natural lawn in a Mediterranean climate uses in the order of 600 litres of water per m² per year, plus weekly mowing in season, feeding and treatments. Artificial grass means a bigger upfront outlay and zero water cost for 10-15 years. The break-even point is usually between the fourth and seventh year, depending on the price of water and whether you were paying someone to mow.
In a Mediterranean climate, keeping 50 m² of natural lawn uses approximately 30,000 litres a year. Artificial grass needs no watering; it's only rinsed occasionally to remove dust, which comes to a few hundred litres a year.
The price per m² covers only the grass roll itself. On top of that you need to count the weed membrane, joining tape and adhesive for the seams, the pegs or perimeter adhesive and, where applicable, the silica sand and the compacted sub-base. In a typical domestic installation, that extra material adds between 10% and 20% on top.
Sub-base preparation, cutting, joints and costly mistakes.
Yes, on hard, regular surfaces — terraces, balconies, concrete patios — and in small, rectangular gardens. In large gardens, with slopes or a lot of curves, sub-base preparation is the critical point and it's usually worth hiring an installer: poor compaction shows up within a few months as ripples.
A craft knife with spare blades, a tape measure, a straight edge or ruler, a synthetic-bristle stiff brush, weed membrane, joining tape, polyurethane adhesive, and U-pegs or perimeter adhesive depending on the type of ground. On soil you'll also need compacted sub-base aggregate, levelling sand and a plate compactor, which is hired by the hour.
For 20 m² on soil, between 8 and 12 hours of work spread over two days, because the grass has to settle for 24 hours before it's cut. On an existing hard surface, the same area is done in 3 to 4 hours.
Yes, and mowing it isn't enough: the whole turf has to be removed, roots and all, or it will sprout back through the joints. The usual approach is to dig out 8 to 10 centimetres, clear out roots and stones, and replace them with a compacted sub-base.
Yes, and it's the simplest kind of installation. All you need is to clean the surface thoroughly, remove moss and any grease, and check that water drains away properly. If the ground is very hard and you want more comfort underfoot, a foam cushioning underlay of around 10 mm can be added.
Yes, as long as the wood is in good condition and well ventilated underneath. The risk is trapping moisture between the decking and the grass, which speeds up rot in the wood. It's best to use a high-drainage grass and not seal the perimeter completely, so the whole thing can breathe.
You can, but it's the main cause of installations that fail. Without a compacted, levelled sub-base, the ground settles unevenly and within a few months ripples and dips appear that can't be fixed without lifting everything up.
On soil, yes. It stops seeds from germinating and pushing through the grass at the joints, which is always where they appear. Use a geotextile of around 100 g/m²: below 90 g/m² the more aggressive roots will punch through it. On concrete or tile, it isn't needed.
Not always. On quality grass with good spring-back, it isn't essential. It is recommended on large surfaces, high-traffic areas and with pets: it weighs down the roll, keeps the fibre upright and improves fire behaviour. The usual dose is 4 to 6 kg/m².
All with the pile facing the same way. If one is turned 180°, the colour looks different depending on the light and the joint will show permanently. It's also worth facing the pile towards the point from which the garden is seen most — usually the house or the terrace — because the green looks more intense against the grain.
Always cut from the back, between two rows of stitches and with a fresh blade. Centre the joining tape under both pieces, apply the adhesive in a zigzag bead and leave a 2-3 mm gap between pieces so they can expand in the heat. Before the adhesive sets, lift out with your fingers any fibres that have got trapped.
Because it arrives with creases from being rolled up for transport. Left out in the sun for 24 to 48 hours, the fibre returns to its position and the roll settles. Cutting before it's had that time to settle means measuring a material that's still going to shift.
Yes, up to moderate slopes. Above 15-20% it's worth reinforcing the fixing at the top and using more pegs, because the weight of the grass itself tends to pull it down over time. On steep banks it's best to bring in an experienced installer.
You make a rough cross-shaped cut, adjust it bit by bit and finish it off leaving 2-3 cm of clearance around the trunk so the tree has room to grow. That gap can be covered with decorative gravel or bark, which also makes it easier to water the tree.
Spring and autumn. Avoid the hottest hours of July and August: above 45°C surface temperature, the adhesive cures too fast and the grass expands, so it contracts as it cools down and opens up the joints. In winter, in sharp cold, the roll takes longer to settle and the fibre is less flexible.
On natural ground with good filtration, no: the perforated backing and the sub-base aggregate drain well on their own. Extra drainage is needed when the ground is clay-based and holds water, or on hard surfaces with no fall. In every case it's worth leaving a 1-2% fall towards the drainage point.
Brushing, cleaning, stains and which products to never use.
A brush against the pile every one or two months in high-traffic areas, a hose-down every two or three months to remove dust, and clearing leaves when needed. For a 40 m² garden that's about 4-6 hours a year, compared with the 40-60 hours that mowing alone demands for an equivalent natural lawn.
Every one or two months in high-traffic areas, and two or three times a year in decorative areas, always against the pile and with synthetic bristles. Never use a metal brush: it scratches and cuts the fibre. It's the most effective maintenance step, and the one fewest people do.
It's not recommended. High-pressure water lifts the fibre away from the backing, can loosen the latex and displaces the silica sand if there is any. Use a hose at normal pressure, which is enough for dust and everyday debris.
Almost all come out with lukewarm water and neutral soap if you act before they dry. For grease or oil, blot it up first with paper and then use washing-up liquid. Chewing gum comes off by hardening it with an ice cube and lifting it with a plastic scraper. For oil-based paint, use a minimal amount of isopropyl alcohol, testing first on an inconspicuous corner.
Bleach, which fades the fibre irreversibly; ammonia, which degrades the latex backing; harsh solvents such as acetone or white spirit, which melt the polyethylene; and de-icing salt, which crystallises in the backing and permanently clogs the drainage.
Only in permanently shaded, damp areas. They don't damage the grass, but they're slippery and unsightly. They're prevented by ensuring good drainage and clearing fallen leaves regularly. To treat it, brush it dry and use a moss-killer specifically for artificial grass: roof-cleaning products often contain copper salts that stain.
Clear them with a leaf blower on medium power or a plastic rake, never a metal one. Under deciduous trees it's worth doing every few days: if leaves break down on the grass, they add organic matter that feeds moss and weeds in the joints.
The safest option is to let it melt on its own; the grass isn't harmed by frost. If you need to clear it, use a plastic shovel without dragging it across the fibre. Never put down salt or de-icing products.
If your installation has it, it's worth checking every two or three years, because it migrates to low spots and some is lost during rinsing. Part the fibre with your fingers: you should see sand spread evenly. If you see bare latex over a wide area, top up with 2-3 kg/m² and brush it in.
Yes, with products designed specifically for artificial grass or with a 10% white vinegar and water solution, which neutralises odours without damaging the backing. For more thorough disinfecting, there are enzyme-based cleaners. Always avoid bleach and concentrated chlorine-based disinfectants.
Not through the fibre itself. They appear at the joints and around the perimeter, from seeds that land on top and germinate in the organic matter that builds up there. They're easily pulled out by hand. A properly installed weed membrane and regular leaf clearance greatly reduce the problem.
Artificial grass is neither food nor habitat, so it attracts considerably fewer insects than a natural lawn. Ants can nest under the backing if the ground already had ant colonies, and they surface through the joints; it's treated with specific bait around the perimeter. Moles are very rare, because the membrane and compacted sub-base make it hard for them to burrow through.
Heat, rain, furniture, barbecues and living with it day to day.
Yes, more than natural grass: in high summer and in direct sun, a dark-coloured grass can go above 55°C in surface temperature. Olive-toned shades and cooling-fibre technology narrow the gap. A quick hose-down brings the temperature straight down, and a shade sail solves the problem on very exposed terraces.
Less than a smooth tile, because the fibre creates friction and the water drains through instead of sitting on the surface. Even so, around a pool it's worth choosing models with a textured backing. No decorative grass replaces a certified anti-slip surface where regulations require one.
Not directly. A single falling ember burns an instant, unrepairable hole. Set up the barbecue area on hard paving, or place a wide protective mat under the appliance. The same goes for cigarette ends: they're the second most common cause of scorch marks.
Yes, but it leaves a mark if furniture is never moved. A table fixed in the same spot for years ends up leaving a permanent imprint. It's enough to shift the furniture slightly every few weeks and brush the area. Furniture with very thin legs is best stood on protective pads to spread the load.
Occasionally, yes, although a stiletto heel concentrates a lot of pressure and can pierce the backing on entry-level grass. In areas where that kind of use is expected — a terrace used for events, for example — a dense, short-pile grass is a better choice.
Yes, and it's one of its advantages: no mud, no insects, no uneven ground. It's just best avoided during the hottest hours on surfaces very exposed to the sun, because of how hot the fibre gets.
No, if the grass's drainage and sub-base are done properly. A perforated backing drains between 50 and 100 litres per hour and m², enough for heavy rain. Puddling almost always comes from a sub-base that's over-compacted, clay-based ground, or a lack of fall on hard surfaces.
Yes, it's a real, documented problem. Slightly concave low-emissivity glass can focus sunlight onto a narrow strip and exceed the fibre's melting point within a few weeks. No guarantee covers it. If you notice a discoloured or melted strip of grass, the solution is a film or an awning on that window.
Grass with stabilised fibre withstands the chlorine of a domestic pool and salt water without fading. What is worth doing is rinsing the area around the pool exit with fresh water a couple of times each summer, because deposited salt and chlorine mat down the fibre over the long term.
If it's fixed properly, yes. The weak point is the corners and the perimeter: on roof terraces and exposed terraces it's worth reinforcing the fixing all round the edge and, if drilling isn't possible, using a continuous bead of perimeter adhesive or weighing it down with silica sand.
Yes, in covered terraces, porches, play areas or shop windows. Indoors it gets no sun, so UV degradation stops being an issue and it lasts much longer. It's worth choosing a low pile height, 20 to 25 mm, which is easier to vacuum and maintain.
That's not what it's designed for. The weight of a vehicle crushes the fibre permanently, and turning wheels rip it out. For areas where vehicles drive over, there are specific solutions with reinforcing cells, which are a different product altogether.
Odours, cleaning, safety and which model holds up best with dogs.
No, provided there's enough drainage. With a backing that drains at least 80 litres per hour and m², urine passes straight through instead of sitting there. Odour appears when drainage is poor or when the sub-base underneath is over-compacted and blocks filtration.
Pick up solids daily, just as you would on natural grass. Every couple of weeks, hose down the area your dog uses. If odour appears, a 10% white vinegar and water solution neutralises it without damaging the latex; specific enzyme-based cleaners work too.
With normal use, no: synthetic fibre doesn't wear away or leave bald patches like natural grass does. The risk comes from dogs that dig, which can lift the perimeter. The fix isn't a different grass but a stronger fixing: pegs every 15 cm instead of every 25, and a buried edging finish.
Grass that complies with EN 71-3 is free of heavy metals above the limits set for toys. Even so, the fibre isn't meant to be swallowed: if your dog chews it compulsively, it's worth supervising them for the first few weeks until they lose interest.
Three things disappear at once: the mud that comes into the house every time it rains, the yellow patches urine burns into natural grass, and the weedkillers and fertilisers in the soil, which are a real risk for an animal that licks the grass. In exchange, you take on a regular rinse of the area the dog uses, which natural grass doesn't require.
Yes. These parasites need damp and organic matter to complete their life cycle, and artificial grass doesn't provide that. It's not an absolute barrier — your pet can still bring them in from elsewhere — but it removes the breeding ground in your own garden.
Between 30 and 40 mm. Below that it's not very comfortable for a pet to lie down on; above 45 mm solid waste and fur get tangled in the fibres and cleaning becomes a chore.
It can be uncomfortable during the hottest hours of summer on very exposed surfaces. Plan for a shaded area, choose olive tones rather than dark green, and hose it down before your pet goes out: the surface temperature drops straight away.
Cats get on well with artificial grass and don't usually dig like dogs do. The only downside is that some use it as a litter tray; it's solved by keeping an appealing litter tray nearby and rinsing the affected area.
Yes: what makes a grass work well with pets is the same across the board. High drainage so urine doesn't sit on the surface, well-anchored fibre that stands up to claws, and a backing that can be rinsed with water. What changes is the use: with a dog, running about and odour matter most; with a cat, it's edges and joints being well finished; with rabbits and guinea pigs, who gnaw, it only makes sense in a supervised play area.
With normal use, no. The fibre is inserted into and fixed onto the backing, so claws slide off instead of catching the way they would on a scratching post. Where it can cause damage is a loose edge or a badly glued joint, which a persistent cat can eventually lift. Finishing the perimeter properly and leaving a scratching post nearby solves almost every case.
It can smell sooner than with dog urine, because cat urine is more concentrated. With high drainage it doesn't stay trapped, but it's worth rinsing thoroughly with water as soon as you spot the area and applying an enzyme-based cleaner, which breaks down the residue causing the smell instead of just masking it. If the cat keeps going in the same spot, the usual culprit is the litter tray: not clean enough, or badly placed.
For a supervised play or exercise area, yes: it's dry, there's no mud or potentially toxic plants, and the rabbit can't dig a way out under the fence. As the flooring of an enclosure where it spends hours alone, no: rabbits and guinea pigs gnaw, and swallowing synthetic fibre can cause an intestinal blockage. If you see it pulling at the fibre, remove it from that area.
Yes, if it's chosen and installed for that purpose. Short pile, 20 to 30 mm, which doesn't trap fur or debris; high drainage over an aggregate base with a fall towards a drain; an anchored perimeter and glued joints, because several dogs playing together will lift a loose edge within days. And a proper routine: picking up solids several times a day and rinsing the urine area daily.
Safe materials, fall cushioning and play areas.
Yes, as long as it complies with the EN 71-3 heavy metals standard, the same one applied to toys. It also does away with mud, ground insects and the need for weedkillers or fertilisers, which are a real risk in a garden used by children who put their hands in their mouths.
On its own, not much: it cushions a little more than a paved surface, but doesn't meet EN 1177 for play areas. For that, it needs to be installed over a foam cushioning underlay, whose thickness is sized according to the free-fall height of the play equipment.
It depends on the fibre. Filaments with a rigid central rib, designed to withstand foot traffic, are rougher. For play areas there are soft fibres without a rigid rib, noticeably more pleasant to the touch and which don't cause the friction burns typical of sports turf.
A swing, yes, anchored to its own base rather than to the grass. A paddling pool can be left for a few days, but if it stays for weeks it will crush the fibre and create a permanently damp patch that encourages mould. If it's staying for the whole season, it's better placed on hard paving.
Yes, and it's a common use. In that case there are two extra requirements to meet: the fire-reaction classification and, if there's play equipment with a fall height, cushioning to EN 1177 via a specific underlay beneath the grass.
It can build up a little static charge in very dry conditions, especially if children slide across it. It's harmless and eases off with ambient humidity; an occasional rinse removes it completely. Grass with silica sand barely shows this at all.
How long it lasts, what damages it, what the guarantee covers and how to repair it.
Between 10 and 20 years. A mid-range model with UV protection, facing south in the Mediterranean, stays looking good for around 12 years; facing north or with partial shade it can go beyond 18. Entry-level ranges last around 7-10 years.
The fibre's spring-back in high-traffic areas, which goes before the colour does. The second sign is the green losing its saturation from UV exposure. The latex backing is the last thing to fail, except in installations with poor drainage.
Yes, over time. Quality grass has UV stabilisers mixed right through the fibre, not just applied on the surface, which delays the process considerably. The colour guarantee, from 5 to 15 years depending on the range, is precisely what covers this kind of deterioration.
When the fibre snaps when folded between your fingers instead of springing back, when the backing shows through the fibre over more than 20% of the surface, when the joints have come apart and won't respond to being re-glued, or when the drainage has stopped working and puddles form.
Yes. The affected area is trimmed into a clean rectangle, a patch of the same material is placed with joining tape underneath and glued in. That's why it's worth keeping the large offcuts from the installation: they'll be exactly the same shade and the same batch, something almost impossible to get years later.
The manufacturer's commercial guarantee covers UV fading for the stated number of years. It doesn't cover damage from incorrect installation, scorching from embers or reflections, chemical stains, crushing from furniture, or normal wear from use. Separately, the 3-year statutory conformity guarantee covers manufacturing defects.
Brushing every two months is the most effective thing you can do, and the thing fewest people actually do. On top of that: move furniture around periodically, rinse off dust two or three times a year, avoid putting a barbecue directly on it, and check the drainage once a year after heavy rain.
It's recyclable, but it requires specialist plants that separate the polyethylene fibre from the polypropylene and latex in the backing. In Spain there are waste handlers who accept it, though the network is still limited. Some manufacturers offer products with a 100% polyethylene backing, recyclable as a single material: if circularity matters to you, it's a question worth asking when buying.
Water, biodiversity, microplastics and recycling, without spin.
It has both advantages and drawbacks, and it depends on the context. In its favour: it saves on the order of 600 litres of water per m² per year in a Mediterranean climate, and does away with weedkillers, fertilisers and mower emissions. Against it: it's a petroleum-derived product, doesn't absorb CO₂, reduces soil biodiversity, and at the end of its life produces waste that's hard to recycle. In water-stressed areas, the balance is usually favourable; in rainy areas, much less so.
Yes. An artificial grass surface stops being a habitat for insects, earthworms and soil microfauna. If that concerns you, a sensible solution is to combine the two: artificial grass in the seating and high-traffic area, and beds with native, low-water plants elsewhere. It preserves biodiversity where it genuinely counts and saves water where it doesn't.
The fibre wears with use and can release particles, though in much smaller amounts than sports pitches with granulated rubber infill. European regulations have restricted polymeric infills in sports facilities, with a transition period; domestic decorative grass, which is weighed down with silica sand rather than rubber, isn't affected in the same way.
Locally, yes. With no evapotranspiration, the surface reaches higher temperatures than a living lawn and contributes to the urban heat-island effect. On small terraces and patios the effect is noticeable in summer. Planning for shade — planting, an awning or a pergola — reduces it considerably.
Yes, and it's usually the best approach. Keeping artificial grass for the area you actually use, and dedicating the rest to xeriscaping with Mediterranean species, keeps the garden alive, cuts water use and avoids turning the whole plot into a synthetic surface.
It depends on each local council's regulations. Artificial grass with a draining backing laid on natural ground is usually counted as permeable, but not always, and on a concrete slab it normally isn't. If your plot is subject to a minimum percentage of permeable surface, it's worth checking with the council before you plan the work.
Permits, shared terraces, waterproofing and drought.
On terraces for your own private use, usually yes, provided the waterproofing and structure aren't altered and the building's exterior appearance isn't changed. It's worth checking the community's bylaws and, if in doubt, notifying the property management company in writing before installing.
For a domestic installation on an existing surface, usually not: it doesn't count as major building work. If it involves earthworks, altering drainage or affects shared elements, it may require prior notice. Each council sets its own criteria, so a quick check avoids surprises.
Never. A peg that goes through the waterproof membrane creates a leak that will end up showing in the flat below, with the liability that comes with it. On a waterproofed surface, grass is fixed exclusively with perimeter adhesive.
There may be, if the work is visible from a public street. In areas with heritage protection, it's worth checking with the council before installing on terraces or patios visible from the street.
No, because it doesn't need watering. In fact, during the recent drought episodes in Spain, the ban on watering ornamental green areas was one of the main reasons many homeowners made the switch.
Prices, payment, timeframes, deliveries and the right of withdrawal.
The price shown is per square metre, incl. VAT. When you enter the m² you need, the system rounds up according to the roll width chosen — 2 or 4 metres — because the cut is made from the full roll, and shows the exact amount before you add it to the basket.
Between 2 and 4 working days within mainland Spain. They're sent in an envelope by standard post, so they're delivered straight to your letterbox: there's no need for anyone to be home. You'll get an email when they're dispatched.
Yes: neither the samples nor the delivery cost anything, and ordering them doesn't create an order or any obligation to buy. They're 10 × 15 cm off-cuts from leftover roll, so it costs us less to send you three than to handle a return of 40 m² in the wrong colour.
Up to three per request, which is what it takes to decide: two real contenders and a wildcard. Beyond that, comparing them stops helping and starts confusing. If you'd like to see other models later on, get in touch and we'll send them.
Credit and debit card, Apple Pay, Google Pay and Bizum, processed through Stripe. Card details are never stored by the shop: payment is handled entirely within the payment gateway's secure environment.
Between 3 and 5 working days to mainland Spain from payment confirmation. Made-to-measure orders placed before 2pm on a working day are prepared that same day.
Rolled onto a cardboard tube and wrapped in film. Up to 30 m² travels by standard courier with delivery to your door; above that amount it's sent on a pallet with kerbside delivery. Bear in mind that a 4 × 10 metre roll weighs around 100 kg: it's worth having two people on hand.
Yes, but with a specific quote to cover the extra cost of sea freight and, for the Canary Islands, Ceuta and Melilla, customs procedures and local taxes. Send us your postcode and the m² you need, and we'll give you a fixed price.
You have 14 calendar days from delivery to withdraw from the purchase, in line with EU regulations. The product must be returned uninstalled and in its original packaging. Made-to-measure cuts done specifically for an order may be excluded from the right of withdrawal; this is always stated before you buy.
If you withdraw from the purchase and there's no fault with the product, the direct cost of the return is yours to cover: as a guide, between €40 and €90 depending on quantity and destination, due to the weight and bulk of the material. If the product is faulty or doesn't match what was ordered, the return is covered by the shop.
Check the packaging before signing and, if you notice any damage, note it in writing on the courier's delivery note: that's what allows you to make a claim afterwards. Also check that the number of parcels matches the delivery note. Then get in touch with the shop with photos of the condition it arrived in.
Yes. Enter your NIF or CIF (Spanish tax ID) in the billing address during checkout and you'll receive an invoice with VAT itemised, valid for deduction if you're buying as a business or self-employed.
Tell us about your case — surface area, use, whether there are pets or children — and we'll give you a specific recommendation. We also send free samples so you can judge the colour and feel in your own light.
Lunes a viernes, 8:00–21:00 · +34 664091942
Are you an automated system? You'll find this same information in plain text (in Spanish) at /faq.txt.